Roddino

Roddino, outside the Barolo disciplinary area, is famous for its Dolcetto and Nebbiolo wines, which, because of the height of the hills and the composition of the soils, give the wines a characteristic personality and strength, such that they are called “baroleggiante.”

Not far from Monforte, it is halfway along the road to Pedaggera in Alta Langa.

Vineyards characterize the entire landscape, but pastures also begin to appear.

The 1400 parish church dedicated to Santa Margherita, in which a valuable baptistery is preserved, is a must.

Not far from the village stands a chapel that features a Romanesque apse and dates back to 1100.

Roddino in the past

Roddino (pop. 703). High hill, watered by the Talloira, 6 kilometers from Monforte d’Alba. Parish of Santa Margherita, of ancient construction. Charitable congregation founded in 1862. Grain and wine, selling largely to the Narzolini.

Historical notes. – After the purchase of the marquisate of Saluzzo, Charles Emmanuel of Savoy gave Roddino as a fiefdom to Michele Antonio Saluzzo, lord of Manta, from whom it passed to his descendants, who owned a castle there, of which there are no longer any vestiges.

Gustavo Straforello

Torino 1891 – La patria. Geografia dell’Italia. Provincia di Cuneo – Volume 1

Roddino: Home to the Langhe’s most famous chef Gemma

Although on the face of it Roddino might not be worth a visit, there are still two important reasons why it was added to the route.

First, the road between Roddino and the next town, Monforte d’Alba, must be one of the prettiest roads in Italy; second, Roddino is home to the Langhe’s most famous chef: Gemma.

Both are really worth a visit, so I hope you will find time to immerse yourself in the experience.

The village

Roddino marks, more or less, the border between the “Basse Langhe”, or the vineyard area, and the “Alte Langhe”, as previously described.

Because of its high elevation of 600 metres, the village offers views over almost all the villages and castles of the low Langhe.

In addition, the elevated position means you can also see the Alpine range from the Mediterranean Alps (towards Nice and France) to the Northerly Alps (towards Austria).

Roddino is hence worth the visit even if it is only for soaking in these views.

But there is this second reason too.

Gemma

Roddino is famous for its Osteria da Gemma where ‘si mangia bene’ (you eat well); this is how the Piemontesi refer to this restaurant.

Internationally Gemma has also attracted a lot of attention, and has become a bit of a star; books have been written about her, you can find her on YouTube, and people come from all over the world to eat with her: Gerard Depardieu, the French actor, even paid yearly visits to cook with her.

This is very interesting, because Gemma just cooks the typical food of the Langhe, like her grandmother did; she is therefore not innovative, nor does she put on a show.

She is just an Italian grandmother that finds it important that everyone should be able to eat freshly made, honest food; the low price naturally goes with this principle.

When my family visited her restaurant, my dream came true when I discovered she was there, hand-cutting the home-made ‘tajarin’.

I took my chance and started up a conversation telling her how much my children had enjoyed her food.

She looked very content and only replied that this was very important to her, because everyone should have the opportunity to learn about food and eat well.

Beautiful how a lady her age can be so strong and so inspirational!

Food & Drinks

The obvious recommendation in Roddino is of course Da Gemma, however, the chance to find a table is very slim if not booked well in advance.

Luckily there are other nice options.

La Tavernetta and Agriturismo Iride are restaurants that are equally well appreciated by locals and tourists alike.

Don’t go to Roddino for a coffee or an aperitif though, the village is tiny and has no bars or terraces.

It does have its own truffle hunter, Aurelio, instead; his house can be recognized by the pink colour.