Prunetto
Prunetto stands a little lower than its ancient medieval part. The remainings of this part are one of the most relevant historical and architectonical complexes of the Langhe. Of the ancient events only the Scarampi castle is still standing.
It’s an impressive building, that dominates all the nearby houses.
Near its feet is the ancient stone door that once marked the entrance of the town, that still has the typical stone roof of the Langhe.
Near the castle is the sanctuary of the Madonna del Carmine, that once was the parish church.
The partonal fair is held in September, and is dedicated to san Matteo.
History
Popular tales tell that the name of the town comes from the many plum trees that were to be found in the place where the town was built.
In 967 Ottone I wrote a diploma to give Prunetto to Aleramo, founder of the marquis of Monferrato’s dinasty.
The salt route to Prunetto at one-day walk from the sea
Further along in the Bormida valley, we find Prunetto at the top of the hill at just over 800 meters.
It is in an enchanting panoramic position and has a very serene atmosphere.
It now seems isolated and desolate, but as so many towns here, its architecture and castles are witnesses from the past.
Prunetto was already an important town in the middle ages, after which it gained importance due to its strategic position along the ‘Via del Sale’ (salt route).
The salt routes, of which there are many, were the original trade routes from the Ligurian sea to Italy’s cities, such as Milan and Turin.
Prunetto was in a special position on this route, as its tower marks the position from which it takes one day to walk to Savona and reach the sea.
The castle and other places of interest
Its impressive castle is from the 12th century when it belonged to the Del Carretto and Scarampi families.
Contrary to the castle of Gorzegno, this castle has withstood the test of time, and today it is still very well maintained; in the castle there is a cultural museum with an exhibition of the ancient salt routes.
Around the castle, there are many nice places for a picnic in the sun.
Being high upon the hill, there are stunning views all around; close to the castle you find the little church ‘Madonna del Carmine’.
As it is only small, you could easily miss it, but this would be a shame.
The outside impresses with its simple beauty as it is completely built in natural Langhe stone, even the roof; the inside is decorated with very special 12th century frescos.
The pictures are of a very high quality and the colours of an endearing subtleness and beauty.
The frescos have recently been restored and ascribed to the famous artist Segurano Cigna from Mondovì: he is considered one of the most important representatives of the Monregalese Gothic School (gothic school of Mondovì); ask the tourist information office when you can visit this little gem.
The salt routes
Knowing about the salt routes makes a stay in the Langhe more interesting, as the past helps you to understand and appreciate the present.
The salt routes have shaped the landscape, architecture and even the cuisine; many ‘sentieri’ (walking paths) still go along these old routes.
I could not believe my luck when I discovered that the Sentiero del Lupo (Wolf path), that runs underneath my house, La Gioiosa, in Montelupo Albese, is actually part of this route.
It sheds a totally different light on the whole experience when you realise that the stone walls along the path stem from these ancient times.
Your mind starts wondering, imagining a sailor from Liguria walking these same paths many years ago; knowing the past, makes the present shine even brighter.
Whereas this southerly part of the Alte Langhe may seem off the beaten track, these hills and valleys were once much more important.
In the late middle ages the Langhe was a hot spot of trade in between the coast and the fast-growing North Italian cities; the roads that run along the hill tops of the Belbo, Bormida and Uzzone valleys are– sort of collectively - known as the ‘vie del sale’ (salt routes).
For hundreds of years, these roads were the most direct, convenient and secure way to travel between the Ligurian sea and the Po-valley; the small villages that now seem completely isolated on their distant hill, were in those times the pit stops on this highway of the middle ages.
These roads connected Genoa to Milan, Savona to Monferrato, and Savona to Asti, Alba and Chieri.
An extraordinary dish and ancient travelers
The history of this historic trade can be recognised in the many castles and towers, but also in the current day menu.
Take the ‘vitello tonnato’ (veal in tuna sauce).
Combining sea food with meat seems a strange combination, but it originated here; sailors would bring their fish and salt into the hills, where farmers would have fresh meat available.
There must have been a creative cook that has thought of this recipe.
Bless her (or him)!
I think it is one of the best dishes of the Italian cuisine, and do you not think it will taste even better next time, now you know the story?
But you can also recognise this history in the large estates that you find along the way; these used to provide accommodation to both merchants and their horses (or mules, and oxes).
The sign on the door would read ‘alloggio a piedi e a cavallo’, meaning ‘accommodation by foot and by horse’; it was not without risk to travel along these trade routes, as travellers could be surprised by earth slides, thunderstorms, and street robbers.
Because of this, the best road was not always the shortest
One of the best ways to travel was to pay road tolls in Finale Ligure; in return for the toll, merchants would get the protection of feudal lords that were part of the Del Carretto business empire.
To rule the trade routes, the Del Carrettos set up a network of roads, castles, towers and ‘palazzi’ (palaces) between which the many traders in salt, oil, spices and silk could travel.
By doing so they created much wealth, and it is for this reason that many of the buildings that we speak of in this book, were once in the hands of this family.
Toward the sea
We recommend you travel part of a salt route by mountain bike or foot.
Hiking trail maps can be found at the tourist offices; you can also drive and slowly wind your way into the valleys towards the sea, for instance past Paroldo and Ceva, and visit the magical Noli.
My favourite route is the SP661 that takes you from Murazzano, over the hills’ crests, towards the sea.
It prevents you having to take the toll road, and it takes just minutes more to drive, with views you will never forget.
Food & Drinks
Agriturismo Cascina Rudino is one of those special places which you would probably never discover as it is in such a distant location.
This is a place though that even the Piemontese themselves praise for the excellent quality of the food; it is the extraordinary kindness of the chefs, combined with the quality of ingredients that contribute to its great dishes.
Ristorante Della Piazza and Agriturismo La Curma both offer honest Piemontese food in a homely setting.
La Curma offers beautiful views as they are located at 811 meters: a good place to go on a hot summer’s day.