Mondovì
Mondovì, a town rich in arts, history and studies, has a scenic position, near the Langhe and Alpi.
Its profile is delicate, with the highest part (Piazza) surrounded by medieval walls, with its districts (Breo, Carassone, Piandellavalle) at the foot of the hill.
The Moro, which is the symbol of this town, tolls on the top of the church dedicated to Santi Pietro e Paolo.
We point out the cathedral, in the sacristy of which some remains of the old cathedral are kept, the churches dedicated to Missione, Misericordia, San Francesco.
We mention, at last, the Maggiore square, the Vescovado, which once was the seat of an old university, Giolitti’s native house, the old Jewish ghetto, Belvedere gardens with Bressani tower, dated back to the 14th century.
History
The first news are of the year 1198, when people from Vico, Vasco e Carassone founded a village on the Vico mountain (from where the name Mondovì), to escape the feudal power of the bishop of Asti.
The bishop reacted immediately and the whole new village was knocked down.
It was rebuilt after 1231, but had to bear the influence of the Angiò, the Visconti, the town of Asti, the marquis of Monferrato, the Acaja, and lastly (since 1418) of the Savoia.
In 1388 it was given a dioceses and the title of “città”.
It was conquered by the French in 1537, and couldn’t be regained by the Savoia until 1559. Emanuele Filiberto established some faculties of the University there and built its citadel.
On April 21st, 1796, Napoleon Bonaparte fought there the final battle for his conquest of Piedmont.
In the nineteenth century Mondovì was involved in the wars for the independence and unity of Italy, just as it was later deeply involved in the Resistance against the Germans (1943-45).
Since the second half of the nineteenth century many schools and colleges had a great success there, and the town grew more and more big and important.
Mondovì: clocks, balloons and electromechanical cable cars
Continuing from the Langhe Cebane towards the west, you drive into the Langhe Monregalese, the area around Mondovì.
This area is flatter, and as you get closer to the mountains, they appear ever bigger on the horizon.
As they are bordering on the Langhe, you might easily overlook them whereas they are well worth a visit, especially if you are interested in history and religious art.
On your route, you will first arrive in Mondovì.
It is located on the Monte Regale hill, or in Piedmontese ‘Ël Mont ëd Vi’, meaning The Mountain of Vicoforte, as the town once belonged to Vicoforte.
Origins and places of interest
Mondovì itself was founded in 1198 by the river Ellero.
It developed into the largest town of Piedmont around 1600.
The first printed book of the region was printed here in 1472 and Mondovì was home to the Piedmontese University from 1560 to 1566.
The city developed in two phases which has led to a city divided into two separate and distinct parts, as many other towns of the area.
The city centre on the 559 meter high hill, is nowadays known as Piazza, whereas the centre along the river is called Breo.
Piazza is built around the medieval square Piazza Maggiore and holds a wealth of medieval churches and architecture as well as the ‘Park of time’: an outdoors museum that charts the development of time pieces from sun dial to modern clocks.
On the banks of the river Ellero at 395 meters of elevation, the modern city of Breo developed around 1800 when merchants and craftsmen settled by the river.
Today Breo forms the lively heart of the city.
On Saturday and Tuesday mornings the old marketplace in Breo fills with local vendors selling specialty foods from nearby farms.
At the market you will find artisanal alpine cheeses like Raschera and Castelmagno; organic raw butter and honey; heritage varieties of fruit and vegetables; fresh porcini mushrooms; hazelnuts and chestnuts.
Each year in January, there is an international ballooning festival, and Mondovì has also its own truffle festival at the end of October.
Every Saturday and Sunday morning during the autumn you can find both white and black truffles from the Monregalese in the local truffle market.
The cable car and other attractions
The bustling Saturday market is a popular meeting place where you are more likely to hear the Piemontese language spoken rather than Italian.
Since 1886 Mondovi’s two cities have been connected by a cable car: the Funicolare.
It was first powered by steam, but proved unreliable.
Following a total rebuilt completed in 2006, using design input from the famous Italian car designer Giorgetto Giugiaro, it now uses an electromechanical system with modern and comfortable carriages enabling visitors to see both parts of the city in less than 3 minutes.
The Funicolare cable car covers now a 445 metres long trail with height difference of 137 metres between the starting point in the lowest part of the town and the arrival on the top of the hill.
Nice sights in Mondovi are the Church of San Francesco Saverio (1664-1678), with works by Andrea Pozzo, the Cathedral of San Donato, designed by Francesco Gallo, the Santa Croce Chapel, with a Gothic fresco cycle, Piazza Maggiore square in Gothic style, and the churches of Santa Chiara and Misericordia.
The local tourist information provides the visitor with a walking map which points out all these places of interest.
Food & Drinks
For a real taste of local life, find a table on the patio of the Pasticceria-Bar Comino and watch the rhythms of Mondovì life pass before you.
Comino is a local institution and is famous for its specialty pastries and sweets.
Be sure and try some typical Monregalese treats such as Paste di Meliga (sweet cornmeal cookies), Bignole (small puff pastries with cream fillings like hazelnut, gianduia, pistachio, etc.), Risole (small flaky pastries with jam fillings) and Cupete (hazelnuts, walnuts and honey between two thin wafers).
Mondovì has several nice places to eat, including two Michelin recommended restaurants, Marsupino in Briaglia just outside Mondovì, and La Borsarella in Mondovì.
If you want a generous meal though, rustic and honest, and at relatively low cost also with a playground for the kids, you should go to La Dimora del Contadino.
You can also stay the night.
For a great pizza and simple meal, you can go to the unpretentious but always good, Quanta Passion.