Mango
Mango, a village mentioned in Fenoglio’s books, was one of the Resistance garrisons. It was named from the impressive castle, built in the second half of the 13th century.
This fort was built by Astigeans against Alba, which had pulled them out near Cossano.
Inside, there are still some secret passages that were used to escape from sieges.
It has been the Regional Wine Library centre for some years.
Mango and the castle of Beppe Fenoglio’s Partisan Johnny
The first thing you will see when approaching Mango, is its impressive castle: it was built as a defensive fortress in the 14th century, and transformed into a summer castle in 1680.
It is called the Castle of the Marquises of Busca, as it was their summer residence for centuries; during that period, they were the lords of Monferrato and Saluzzo.
The structure of the original fortress can still be recognised in the building of today’s castle and the lay-out of Mango’s historical centre.
The 18th-century bell tower of the Parish Church, for instance, is aligned with the castle and this is because it is built on the ancient foundations of the fortress’ tower.
The castle still has all its original features, including the secret underground walkways that enabled people to escape the castle, prisons, and torture rooms.
After the Busca’s, the castle belonged to the Duchy of Mantua (until 1714) after which it passed, like so many others, to the Savoy.
The story of Johnny
The castle became famous because of the book of Beppe Fenoglio about Partisan Johnny.
It describes the brutal fights that took place in Mango between the ‘Azzurri’ or Partisans and the fascists of Mussolini.
On January 31st, 1945 Johnny was among the hundred men in Mango that had to hand it over to the fascists; the book is one of the most lauded books in Italian literature.
Fenoglio was a writer from the Langhe, so in the village you can follow a special Fenoglio itinerary; this unique route lets visitors discover the famous places taken straight from the novels of this celebrated writer.
From the castle you can take a walk down the steep narrow streets, and admire the parish church dedicated to Saints Giacomo and Cristoforo, the most important religious places in Mango since the 16th century and you can also visit the Baroque bell tower, built in the mid-1700s.
The construction of the tower took 11 years, from 1742 to 1753 and the clock itself was a gift from the Marquis of Busca.
The castle now hosts artistic and cultural events.
The ways of salt
Mango was also part of the Magistra Langarum, the ‘Via del Sale’ (salt route).
There were various salt routes in the Langhe, and many along the Italian coasts: they were the routes from the sea-ports inlands, towards the cities.
On these routes, goods were exchanged; salt and fish from the sea, for meat, fruits and vegetables from the land.
Mango was part of the salt route from Alba via Trezzo, Rocchetta Belbo, Castino, Cortemilia, Scaletta and Cairo Montenotte, to the sea.
Food & Drinks
If you are looking for a good glass of wine, there is the Regional Enoteca of Moscato located on the ground floor of Mango’s castle.
Next to the winery there are also a bar and a restaurant that is on the second floor and called Castello di Mango Restaurant.
Not far from the city centre is the Trattoria del Campo, which offers traditional Piemontese cuisine and wines for excellent prices.
Agriturismo Brusalino offers good food with vineyard views from its infinity pool.