Cortemilia
Anciently called Cohors Aemilia, it’s one of the main towns in the Langhe.
Its original nucleus are medieval houses, each with its porch.
The cylindrical tower, built in 1200, dominates the town, and is the only remaining of the aleramic castle.
The river Bormida divides Cortemilia in two quartiers, named after the churches of saint Michael and saint Pantaleo.
Beautiful is the former Franciscan convent, that is said to have been built by saint Francis himself.
Cortemilia is famous for its round hazelnut, to which a fair is dedicated, that takes place every August.
Cortemilia: hazelnut capital of the Langhe
Cortemilia, in the Belbo valley, is the main town in this area and known as the hazelnut capital of the Langhe.
The town was founded in Roman times, halfway between the baths of Acqui Terme (Aquae Statiella) and Bagnasco (Balneascum); it was at the height of its development in the late Middle Ages when its important monuments were built which characterise the town: an example of this is the tall round tower with what remains of the city walls that you see when you drive towards Cortemilia.
The old city centre has many small alleys, covered by low arcades built on beautiful sandstone pillars.
A stroll around town can be punctuated with the enjoyment of one of many sweet snacks that are on offer; you should definitely taste Cortemilia’s signature dish, the ‘torta di nocciole’ or hazelnut cake.
Some cakes are made with, and others without flour; if you can find one without, that is the one you want to try, as it has a superior taste and texture.
The hazelnuts are also used to make a pasta sauce; it’s an acquired taste but worth a try.
It will probably be the first time you will have eaten pasta with hazelnut sauce.
Art and hiking
Cortemilia’s church ‘Chiesa Pieve di Santa Maria’ is one of the most important Roman remains in the Langhe; the building can be dated between the 12th and 13th centuries.
Subsequently, some renovations were carried out in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, such as the elimination of a side aisle and the raising of the apse.
Religious tradition has it that Saint Francis stayed in this place in 1213, while on the way from Savona to Asti on the Via Magistra Langarum; it is believed that he himself founded the monastery.
The church has been built at the foot of Monte Uliveto, just outside the centre of Cortemilia: this hill is an excursion in itself.
Behind the church you find a wonderful stone road that climbs up the hill in between the terraces that are typical of the centuries old interaction between man and nature.
The dry stone walls are built with the natural stone of the area, and are a feast to the eye as they are strengthened by beautiful arches.
In summer the church is used for religious and classical music performances.
Other churches that are worth a visit are those of San Pantaleo, the San Michele that was built on the remains of a Benedict monastery, and the former Minoriten monastery from 1213 AD.
Food & Drinks
Being the largest town in this area, Cortemilia offers most culinary options on this route.
Ristorante San Carlo offers good food in a luxurious setting.
Pizzeria la Torre is a popular local restaurant that offers high quality pizzas; they have a cosy courtyard so you can also eat outside.
Ristorante dell' Agriturismo Castel Martino is a truly magical place as the restaurant is in a castle set within beautiful nature.
Go here on the weekend for an endless family lunch! La Corte di Canobbio is a good choice if you want to taste what Cortemilia is famous for, hazelnuts.
For over 50 years they have been making Torta di Canobbio, their hazelnut cake! How could you not go there and taste it? Next to this, their ‘pasticceria’ (pastry shop) offers a great selection of home cooked hazelnut, and other delicacies; all this in a wonderful historical setting.
An excellent place to buy presents to bring home for friends and family.
The world's most famous hazelnuts
A famous product of the Langhe is the hazelnut species ‘Tonda e gentile’ (round and gentle), which gives Nutella its specific taste; this refined hazelnut is considered the best nut in Italy and abroad.
It is said that the best quality is grown in the High Langhe, at the higher altitudes.
The Langhe also have special potatoes, grown in the Belbo Valley hills at an altitude of up to 900 meters; they are very rich in vitamin C and potassium and are appreciated for their delicate taste.
The products of the hills and valleys
Other products cultivated in these lush hills include herbs, spices, and honey.
The Robiola di Roccaverano, is the famous cheese from Roccaverano, a medieval village high upon the hills.
In the local church, they keep a document written around the year 1000 in which this cheese made from ovine milk is described.
It is a very delicious and authentic cheese! The Alte Langhe holds a small surprise, as this region too, has a DOCG wine: the Spumante DOCG that comes in a white and “rosato” version.
The production area reaches across the long hill range in the provinces of Cuneo, Asti and Alessandria, where the wine is produced from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes.
The vines grow on the hillsides between 280 and 550 meters above sea level on calcareous-clayey grounds; the valley floors, wet and flat, are unsuitable for their cultivation.
The Spumante (sparkling wine) originated around 1850 when the Marquis Leopoldo Incisa started to grow several French vines in his vineyard located in Rocchetta Tanaro.
The vines were not liked amongst vine growers; the local farmers' aversion to foreign vines lasted for 50 years and Marquis Incisa’s successor found no farmer willing to cultivate them until around 1900.
Carlo Gancia from Canelli however, embraced the grapes and helped to diffuse the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes among winemakers in the Canelli district.
His wine house was established in 1850 but it was not before 1865 that this winehouse started to produce sparkling wines.
He got inspired on his visit to the Champagne and after 15 years of trying to make a good sparkling wine, he developed the Metodo Classico: the typical Piemontese process of producing sparkling wine.
Whereas Gancia became famous for its unique Asti Spumante, the method was also adopted in the Alte Langhe and in this way the Alta Langa spumante DOCG was born.