Clavesana

Artistically relevant are the majestic castle, that dominates the Tanaro valley, and the eighteenth-century parish church dedicated to saint Michael.

Clavesana is an important wine-making town, and is currently rediscovering its touristical potentials, thanks to the truffles and hazelnuts.

The most important happening is the fair of the Madonna della Neve in August.

History

Before the Roman conquest, the town was inhabited by the Liguri Bagenni tribe.

Once the Roman empire had fallen, it was controlled by the Aleramici; one of them, Hugh, chose the top of this hill as a home, chiefly because it was easy to defend, thanks to its tall and steep sides.

Later, in the fifteenth century, the republic of Genova and the marquis of Saluzzo fought over it for a long time, until the Savoia made it a feud for different allied families of theirs.

On the beach at Clavesana’s cliffs

Clavesana is a small town that consists of two parts, one on top of the ‘calanchi’ (badlands or cliffs) and one along the river.

Although it is not much of a big town, it still attracts plenty of visitors.

This is due to the excellent cooperative winery of Clavesana where the Piemontese buy their wine; the cantina offers a wide range of wines that can be tasted and purchased.

Some can also be bought by the litre, like buying petrol from the pump, although a lot better to drink!

It comes straight from the barrel and locals come here with their huge jerry cans to stock up, and then bottle their wine at home with the help of a simple hand pump and a small machine that can push the cork into the bottle.

When the bottle is empty, it is rinsed with wine and dried upside down on a special circular wine bottle rack waiting for the next round; this is not only a cheap way to drink your favourite wine, it is also very environmentally friendly.

What are the calanchi?

The area around Clavesana is known for its beautiful landscape.

It is just on the edge of the Langhe, on a point where the hills drop down dramatically into the Tanaro river.

You get beautiful views looking down over the river and plain, as well as up to the impressive white cliffs, called ‘calanchi’.

There is even a spot where you can get to the river, and sit ‘on the beach’ if you could call it that.

Food & Drinks

Close to Clavesana are some very good Dolcetto and Barbera producers that are recommended by leading wine books and Slow Food.

Some good examples are Eraldo Revelli near Belvedere Langhe, Gallo on the road from Clavesana to La Speranza, and Bricco del Cucù near Ghigliani.

Cantine Luzi Donadei Fabian is housed in an impressive historical building and has an equally impressive wine cellar.

Agriturismo San Martino offers great food in a wonderful setting; inside there is a dining hall with an impressive vaulted ceiling, whereas outside there is a beautiful garden with a pool.

Il Palazzetto

Ristorante dell'Agriturismo Il Palazzetto is our personal favourite: it offers a set menu with the best Piemontese food in a quiet countryside setting in the hamlet of Palazetto.

This is a restaurant that you can stumble across by accident, intrigued to see why so many cars are parked along the roadside.

This is generally a sign that there is good food on offer somewhere nearby!

They serve the original, antique version of vitello tonnato here, made according to a centuries’ old Piemontese recipe.

I had dinner here many years ago and I will never forget what a great experience this was.