Barbaresco
The tower of Barbaresco stands on the top of one of the Rocche along the Tanaro river. Here there once was a wild wood (barbaro, in Italian), from which the town’s name presumably comes.
Some people believe instead that the name comes from the Saracens, who were called “Barbareschi”.
The Liguri tribes named some of the most prestigious wine crus of this area, like “Asili” (shelter) and “Martinenga” (dedicated to the god Mars).
In the town, in the deconsecrated church of san Donato the regional wine cellar has been made.
Here you can taste the world famous Barbaresco DOCG.
The patronal feast of San Donato is celebrated between the end of July and the beginning of August, while every year, on the third weekend of October, the event “Piacere, Barbaresco” takes place.
Barbaresco: The wine of Queens
You may wonder why you should leave the Barolo area to see more vineyards in the Barbaresco, you will find the answer if you follow today’s route via Barbaresco, Treiso, Mango, and Neive.
On your way you will be amazed with the unspoilt natural landscape and elegant sleepy villages; you can stop anywhere and just listen to the wind rustling through the trees, the sound of birds flying by, a distant dog barking, and a church bell ringing.
The feeling of nature, space, and silence is overwhelming.
Whereas the Barolo perhaps gives a feeling of prestige and grandeur, the Barbaresco gives a feeling of melancholy and modest elegance; it is for this outstanding beauty that the Barbaresco was also made part of the UNESCO World Heritage area.
The hills roll softly and gently and its towns are small, sweet, and homely.
Barbaresco is a very quiet town: it is wonderful to just stroll around in search of a nice cup of coffee.
The streets and houses are meticulously maintained and there are some nice restaurants and cantinas: it is not easy to discover them though.
It is only the names displayed at the doors of the majestic houses they adorn, that provide a clue to the culinary secrets that lie behind.
These are the families that have made the town into one of Italy’s food and wine heavens.
Origins and traditions
The story goes that the name Barbaresco was given to the town when the ‘barbarians’ invaded the Langhe in the 10th century; this was a time when the Celts still lived in the area and prayed to the river-god ‘the Tanaro’.
The Barbaresco tower is a focal point in the area and also the town’s main historical attraction.
It stands tall alongside the banks of the river, overlooking the Tanaro valley with views towards the castles of Govone, Guarene, and Magliano, in the Roero area, opposite the valley.
In recent years the tower has been restored to its original glory.
The rooftop-terrace provides a stunning 360-degree panorama of the surrounding countryside.
Another nice location to visit is the Parrocchiale di San Giovanni, a church built between 1719 and 1728 and designed by an architect named Castelli.
On the first Sunday in September, when the area celebrates its ‘festa patronale’ (patronal feast), wineries open their cantinas and offer guided visits to the vineyards.
Food & Drinks
There are two cantinas offering an excellent wine tasting experience: Cantina del Bricchetto di Franco Rocca and Cantina Montaribaldi.
The Cascina Albano vineyard also deserves a recommendation as a family-run wine producer who cares passionately about the quality of their product.
To sample a wider selection of wines and compare producers, you have a choice between two wineries: the “Enoteca Regionale del Barbaresco” and the “Cantina Sociale dei Produttori del Barbaresco”.
The ample supply illustrates that Barbaresco, like Barolo, is all about wine; there are also several places to have a wonderful lunch or dinner, making Barbaresco ideal for a day out.
Right next to the Barbaresco tower, you will find Trattoria Antica Torre that is well known in the area for its good food.
Ristorante Rabajà has a great menu too and a lovely terrace just in case you visit in nice weather.
La Cantina del Rondò is a local restaurant that is recommended by Slow Food; they offer excellent local food in a very pleasant historical setting.
The Barbaresco wine
Although the Langhe is not big, each area has its own distinctive wine and the reason behind this are the many micro-climates.
Initially, this is difficult to appreciate or understand, but with a sharp eye, you can recognize the differences in vegetation.
The Barbaresco also has its own micro-climate that allows the Nebbiolo grape to ripen a little earlier than in the Barolo, resulting in the typical Barbaresco wine.
Warm sea-air from the Ligurian coast is carried inland via the rivers and through the valleys; as a result, the vegetation shows a remarkable resemblance with the Mediterranean coast, with pines and palm trees.
Another thing you may notice, are the beautiful roses planted alongside the vines; though this is very decorative, these roses also serve a practical purpose.
They are the early warning sign for diseases: as the roses are more prone to disease, the farmer can catch the disease in time, before it can hurt his harvest.
The Barbaresco production area can be divided in the zones around its principal towns of Barbaresco, Neive and Treiso.
Around 45% of the production is from around Barbaresco, 30% from around Neive and 20% from Treiso.
Well recognised wineries are: Montefico, Montestefano and Rabajà in Barbaresco, Albesani, Santo Stefano, Bricco di Neive and Gallina in Neive, and Pajorè in Treiso.
To the senses
Like Barolo, Barbaresco is made from the Nebbiolo grape.
While Barolo is rich and thick, Barbaresco is more elegant and aromatic, though still very powerful; this is why the saying is, that Barolo is the wine for Kings and Barbaresco the wine for Queens.
Both equally prestigious, but one just a bit gentler than the other.
The taste of the Barbaresco is often described as having a bouquet of roses or violets, with notes of cherry, truffles, fennel and liquorice.
As the wine ages, it can develop smoky notes and more earthy flavours like leather and tar.
Barbaresco is also sometimes considered the younger brother of Barolo, as its fame developed later and because its area is smaller.
In the past, the wines were sweeter, which was partially due to the micro-climate.
As the Nebbiolo grape tended to ripen late into October, the dropping temperatures would sometimes slow down or even halt fermentation leaving the wine with noticeable amounts of residual sugar.
In the 1890s, an enology professor in Alba managed to utilise a heated fermentation tank to successfully produce a dryer wine.
This was Professor Dominio Cavazza who is often considered to be the ‘Father of Barbaresco’.
Domino Cavazza
Cavazza moved to the region in 1888, when he was invited to become the first director of the Enological School in Alba, the oldest wine-university in Italy; the school still exists and is located in Alba, just on the edge of town.
It is funny to see the students come off the bus, and walk up the small hill covered in vines towards the stately building in which the university is located.
It seems such a privilege to be able to study there, at the heart of one of the best wine-producing areas in the world, and then in such a beautiful setting.
I bet some of you envy these lucky students.
Cavazza was also the one who founded the ‘Cantina Sociale di Barbaresco’ in the castle of Barbaresco, and named the wines after the town; his contributions have meant a great deal for the wine development and reputation.
Wineries began to refocus on the production of high-quality wines, and slowly the area grew into one with an international reputation.
Elements of belonging
The Barbaresco was granted “Denominazione di origine controllata (DOC)” status in 1966 and “Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG)” status in 1980.
DOCG regulations stipulate that the wine must be aged for a minimum of two years, of which at least one year must be in oak, to be called a Barbaresco.
To be a ‘Riserva’, the wine has to be aged for at least four years.
The wines must have a minimum 12.5% alcohol, though most wines are closer to 13.5%.
A good Barbaresco should age around 5-10 years before drinking as they are tannic and tight in their youth.
Some can be drunk well after 20 years.